Dhahran Diary

Title: Preface

DD01

The old fort at Hofuf in 1949. The author stands before the fort just before the bus takes us back to Dhahran. Jim Bowers, a family friend, snapped this document.

I owe my great ARAMCO experience to my father, Rolf C. Christophersen, and my mother, Melitza Angelich Christophersen. This son of an Iowa bank cashier and daughter of an immigrant Montana merchant gave my sister, Jerry Karen, and me a vigorous start in life with our journey to Saudi Arabia.

The adventuresome came to Dhahran from all walks of life, all professions, persuasions, and locations. Maybe the most interesting aspect of expatriate life within the ARAMCO communities of Dhahran, Abqaiq, and Ras Tanura was the rich cross-section of Americana concentrated in these petroleum camps. As an eleven year old, I was very interested in the differences my new friends and acquaintances exhibited. Malcolm MacKenzie had a father from New Zealand and a mother from Australia, yet Malcolm was an American, born on the west coast. His speech pattern was unique and puzzling.

As expatriates, we were divided from the Arab culture by our living accommodations. The Dhahran camp, a combination of administrative, shops, residential, transportation, and storage space, slowly grew into a small, modern west coast-like community with wide streets--some divided-- irrigated lawns and gardens, recreation centers, schools, and hip-roofed homes without gutters and downspouts. A high, chain link fence eventually surrounded our life in the Eastern Province. It kept our lifestyle in and the Arab lifestyle out, or maybe it just kept our lifestyles separated until a rational conjunction could be achieved. Whatever the case, when the five o’clock whistle blew, actually a siren atop a shops building, the Saudi Arabs went away to their new living quarters outside the camp and we settled down to more western ways. Living in Dhahran was always a compromise of who you were and who was around.

The desert around Dhahran was a combination of rock, sand, coastal plain, and date garden. West of Dhahran was the desert. It was monochrome and seemingly never ending. To the east was Bahrain, a British protectorate where a four-hour launch cruise landed one at Manama. It was full of British goods and Government House was the expatriate center since Bahrain had no star hotels. In early times, the Dilmun culture inhabited the island.

The region teemed with natural life; oryx, gazelle, fox, various lizards, exotic birds, an abundance of sea creatures, snakes, spiders, and insects proliferated. Earwigs and other crawlers found their way into our homes along with sand . Locusts came up and swarmed on the crescent years. Arabian horses were a big diversion. Domestic animals such as chickens, goats, sheep, donkeys, and camels dotted the landscape.

Camel at Qatif. Camels were not a part of the caravan scene in the Eastern Province. They were herded , used as carriages, and kept for their leather and food source. They were a sign of wealth in the early days.

Once the Toyota pick-up became a herder's tool of choice, its honking horn beaconed the camel to round up. This practice had its negative effect too. When camels were near roadways, passing drivers honked to drive them away from danger. However, the new learned behavior caused the beasts to run toward the honking with disastrous results. (rcc)

The Dhahran airfield, as it was called in the early days, was the expatriate link to Europe, the Middle East, India, East Africa, and ultimately, the United States. The U.S. Air Force and the U.S. Army had contingents there. My parents hosted a number of fliers who were veterans of the air battles launched against Nazi Germany from England. My first job was that of a stock boy at the base PX. Mr. Streghetti, an Italian, was my first boss.

The author dreamed of going back to Dhahran and as luck would have it, his dreams were answered in 1982 with the help of boyhood friends Steve Furman and Marshall Jones. When he left Dhahran in the winter of 1985, he took a poster of ARAMCO’s fifty year anniversary celebration. That poster illustrates the immense change that had occurred in Dhahran between 1933 and 1983. For part of the celebration, each ARAMCO employee received a Cross pen and pencil set with the Arabic numeral fifty as a small applique, and one month’s extra salary, an example of ARAMCO’s generosity.

Without this generosity, how could Westerner or Arab alike who were average citizens, have attended expensive boarding schools? How could they have traveled the great oceans on passenger liners and flown the skies to span continents in modern aircraft? How could they have ridden the Orient Express or crossed the Bosphorus and English channels? How could they have flown out of the night to breakfast in Santa Maria, Shannon, Lisbon, and Athens? How could so many returning school-age friends have descended into cities such as Amsterdam, Rome, and Paris to partake of the great cultural feast waiting at addresses such as Harry’s New York Bar, the Coliseum, Victor Emmanuel, and Rembrandt Square? We could not have done these things without ARAMCO. Nor could ARAMCO have benefited the Kingdom without the expertise and willingness of those early Americans and Arabs who gave up a current lifestyle to venture into uncharted waters. The journey wasn't for everyone.

Copyright ©1999-2006 Rolf A. Christophersen
All Rights Reserved.

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